Measurements:
Full length
Waist length
Waist Round
Chest round
Shoulder
Neck
Sleeve length
Sleelve round arm
Top Sleeve round
Armhole round
Front
(0-1) = waist length + 1/4"
(0-2) = 1/8 chest round + 2"
(2-3) = 1/4 chest round + 1"
(1-4) = 1/4 waist round + 1/2"
(0-5) = 1/2 shoulder
(5-6) = 1/2" down (shoulder slope)
(0-7) = 1/12 chest round (neck width)
(0-8) = Front neck depth
cut along (8-2-1-4-3-6-7) for front
add seam allowance for shoulder = 1/2"
add seam allowance for sides = 1"
Back
(0-1) = waist length + 1/4"
(0-2) = 1/8 chest round + 2"
(2-3) = 1/4 chest round + 1"
(1-4) = 1/4 waist round + 1/2"
(0-5) = 1/2 shoulder
(5-6) = 1/2" down (shoulder slope)
(0-7) = 1/12 chest round (neck width)
(0-8) = back neck depth
x = midpoint of (6-a)
cut along (8-2-1-4-3-x-6-7) for back
add seam allowance for shoulder = 1/2"
add seam allowance for sides = 1"
for back open,
(1-8) on open side
finally attach zip.
(0-1) , (0-2) & (0-3) = 1/ 3 waist round
(1-4), (2-5) & (3-6) = full length - waist lentgh + 1"
cut 2 skirts
take 1 skirt for cotton lining
take another skirt for satin or raw silk material .
Panels
( ie., panel length)
(skirt length = full length - waist length)
waist round divided by how many pcs you need
for example,take 1/10 front waist & 1/10 back waist. ie., total panel = 20
(10 for front and 10 for back)
(4-5) = width of the panel = 2 3/4"
ie., 2" + 3/4" Seam allowance
(1-6) = bottom width of the panel
ie., 2 * (4-5) measure
(0-4 ) = 1/2 of (4-5) measure
(6-7) = (4-5) measure
(5-8) = (1-6) measure
if you cut this method, we can save the material (by up and down method).
first, we have to cut 3 paper cut then we have to keep on the net fabric and cut the panels as same as the method mentioned above.
kali pcs (same 20 pcs)
(0-1) & (2-3) = kali pc length
( ie., 1/2 of the length of panel or from the hip round)
(1-6) = 4" to 6"(bottom width of the kali pc as per our taste)
(0-5) = 1/2 of (1-6)
(5-7), (6-8), and so on..... = 4" to 6"
to get more flare, we have to attach these kali pcs. in between the panels.
Sleeve
(0-1) - Sleeve Length
(0-2) - 1/12 Chest + ¾”
(2-3) - ¼ Chest – 1”
(1-4) - ½ Round Arm
(or )
another method,
(0-1) = Sleeve length + 1/2" for folding
(0-2) = 2" for kids
3" for adults
(2-3) = 1/2 top sleeve + 1/2"
(1-4) = 1/2 Sleeve round arm
x = midpoint of (0-3)
a = 1/2"
b = 3/4 "
c = 1/2"
Add : 1" seam allowance for both sides of the sleeves
next posting ................... stitching method
next posting ................... stitching method
