KAMEEZ WITH CUT

   

KAMEEZ WITH CUTS

Construction:   ( front and back)

 (0-1)                  = Length

(0-2)                   =    1/8 chest round + 2”  (or)

                                (0-5) measure  -  ½”                       

(2-3)                   =    ¼ chest  round + 1”

(1-4)                   =     (12-13) measure + 2”

(0-5)                   =     ½ shoulder 

(5-6)                   =     ½” down (shoulder slope)        

(0-7)                   =     1/12 chest round (or)   2 ½”

(0-8)                   =      Back neck depth (3”)

(0-9)                   =       Front neck depth  (5 ½”   to  6”)

(0-10)                 =     Waist Length

(10-11)               =     ¼ waist round + ½”

(0-12)                 =     Slit length

(12-13)               =      ¼ slit round + ½”

(4-4’)                  =    ½” up (for shaping)

X       =   midpoint of (6-a)

sleeve

(0-1)       =     sleeve length

(0-2)       =     3"  to 3 1/2"

(2-3)       =     1/2 top sleeve + 1/2"

(1-4)       =     1/2 sleeve round arm

{  add seam allowance for shoulder = 1/2" ; side seam =  1";

    down (for folding) = 1"

for sleeve ----    side seam   = 1"

down for folding =  1"}

slit starts from no.13

DESIGNER BLOUSES

Hi............

Princess Blouse

Measurements:

 Length

chest round

waist round

shoulder (measure front side of the shoulder)

Neck (back & front)

Bust point / nipple point

distance between the nipple point

sleeve length

sleeve round arm

armhole round

top sleeve round

Back

(0-1)                =       Length

(0-2)              =       (0-5) measure -  ½”

(2-3)               =       ¼  chest  round + ½”

(1-4)               =         ¼ waist round + 1” (dart )

(0-5)                =       ½ shoulder

(5-6)               =       ½” down (shoulder slope)

(0-7)              =        1/12 chest

(0-8)              =        back neck depth  (6”)

(1-9)              =        4” 

(9-10)           =        4 ½ “  (dart length)

(9-11) & (9-12)   =    ½”   (dart width)

X      =   midpoint  of (6-a)

 

Front

(0-1)                =       Length

(0-2)              =       (0-5) measure -  ½”

(2-3)               =       ¼  chest  round + ½”

(1-4)               =         (2-3) measure

(0-5)                =       ½ shoulder

(5-6)               =       ½” down (shoulder slope)

(0-7)              =        1/12 chest

(0-8)              =        front neck depth  (6”)

(0-9)              =        bust point length

                               ( from shoulder to nipple point)

(9-11-10)       =     horizontal line

(9-11) & (1-12) =  ½ distance between the nipple point

(12-13) & (12-14)  =  1” (dart width)

(8-8’)            =     ¼” inside 

Join     (8’-1)

15      =     midpoint of ( 3-6  (curve)  )

Cut along   (15-11-13) &  (15-11-14).  we will get 2 parts.

Part 1   =   8’-9-1-13-11-15-6-5-7

Part 2    =     15-11-14-4-10-3

Then add  ½”  seam allowance on line (15-11-13) &  (15-11-14). 

X  = midpoint

Sleeve

(0-1)    (0-1)     =              sleeve length

(0-2)     =               3”

(2-3)      =             ½ top sleeve + ½”

(1-4)      =            ½ sleeve round arm

X  = midpoint of (1-3)

Hook patti

(0-1)&(2-3) =  (8-1) measure from front + 2"
(0-2)& (1-3)  =  2"

Ring patti


(0-1)&(2-3) =  (8-1) measure from front + 2"
(0-2)& (1-3)  =  3"










(0-1)&(2-3) =  2"
(0-3)& (1-2)  =  (1-4) measure from front + 1" seam allowance

ANARKALI MODEL 2

ANARKALI (PANELS FROM SHOULDER)


                                                                          Front view

Back view

(0-1) and (2-3) =  Kali piece length (take half of the panel length (or)  from the hip of the person to till knee                          length
(1-6) = 4" to 6"(bottom width of the kali pc as per our taste)
(0-5) = 1/2 of (1-6)
(5-7), (6-8), and so on..... = 4" to 6"

first, we have to mark the measurement on the paper. Then cut along (1-5-6), (5-6-7), (6-7-8) and so on....


and then, attach the kali piece in between the panels as same as above posted anarkali pattern.

Anarkali tutorial (model 1)

Measurements:

Full length

Waist length

Waist Round

Chest round

Shoulder

Neck 

Sleeve length

Sleelve round arm

Top Sleeve round

Armhole round

Front

(0-1)  =  waist length + 1/4"
(0-2)  =   1/8 chest round + 2"
(2-3)  =   1/4 chest round + 1"
(1-4)  =   1/4 waist round + 1/2"
(0-5)  =   1/2 shoulder
(5-6)  =   1/2" down (shoulder slope)
(0-7)  =   1/12 chest round (neck width)
(0-8)  =   Front neck depth
cut along (8-2-1-4-3-6-7) for front
add seam allowance for shoulder = 1/2" 
add seam allowance for sides = 1"









                                    

Back


(0-1)  =  waist length + 1/4"
(0-2)  =   1/8 chest round + 2"
(2-3)  =   1/4 chest round + 1"
(1-4)  =   1/4 waist round + 1/2"
(0-5)  =   1/2 shoulder
(5-6)  =   1/2" down (shoulder slope)
(0-7)  =   1/12 chest round (neck width)
(0-8)  =   back neck depth

x    =   midpoint of (6-a) 

cut along (8-2-1-4-3-x-6-7) for back
add seam allowance for shoulder = 1/2" 
add seam allowance for sides = 1"



for back open,
(1-8)  on open side 
finally attach zip.

Skirt ( half umbrella)

(0-1) , (0-2) & (0-3)  =  1/ 3 waist round

(1-4), (2-5) & (3-6)  =  full length -                                              waist lentgh + 1"

cut 2 skirts

take  1 skirt for cotton lining
take another skirt  for satin or raw silk material .











                                                                                                        Panels

(0-1) & (2-3)  =  skirt length + 2"

                           ( ie., panel length)

(skirt length = full length - waist length)

waist round divided by how many pcs you need
for example,take 1/10 front waist  & 1/10 back waist.  ie., total panel = 20
(10 for front and 10 for back)
(4-5) = width of the panel  = 2 3/4"
             ie., 2" + 3/4" Seam  allowance
               


(1-6)  =  bottom width of the panel
              ie., 2 * (4-5) measure
(0-4 )  =  1/2 of (4-5) measure
(6-7)  =    (4-5) measure
(5-8)  =   (1-6) measure 

if you cut this method, we can save the material (by up and down method).

first, we have to cut 3 paper cut  then we have to keep on the net fabric  and cut the panels as same as the method mentioned above.

kali pcs (same 20 pcs)

(0-1) & (2-3) = kali pc length
         ( ie., 1/2 of the length of panel or from the hip  round)

(1-6)  = 4" to 6"(bottom width of the kali pc as per our taste)
(0-5)  =  1/2  of (1-6)
(5-7), (6-8), and so on.....   = 4" to 6"


  to get more flare, we have to attach these kali pcs. in between the panels.



                                                                                            

                                                                                                      Sleeve  

                                                                       

    

(0-1) - Sleeve Length

(0-2) - 1/12 Chest + ¾”

(2-3) - ¼ Chest – 1”

(1-4) - ½ Round Arm

(or )

another method,

(0-1)  =  Sleeve length + 1/2" for folding

(0-2)  =  2" for kids

              3" for adults

(2-3)  =  1/2 top sleeve + 1/2"

(1-4)  =  1/2 Sleeve round arm

x  = midpoint of (0-3)

a  = 1/2"

b  = 3/4 "

c  = 1/2"

Add :  1" seam allowance for both sides of the sleeves


next posting ...................   stitching method

Anarkali suit (panels from waist)

ANARKALI SALWAR  (PANELS WITH KALI PIECES)


FRONT VIEW

BACK VIEW

COMING UP..........................  

TUTORIAL    is here